I’ve been using wood faceplates instead of metal faceplates with wood scrap blocks. A wood faceplate eliminates the risk of hitting a screw while turning. I can have as many wood faceplates as I want and keep it on the project until the project is complete. I can make any size faceplate that may be needed.
In a recent video making a segmented bracelet, I used two wood faceplates to build up the segment layers from both top and bottom at once. For that project I also used a reverse chucking alignment adapter to hold one faceplate in the tail stock with the other mounted in the head stock. With this mount, I was able to glue in the last middle layer to both at once on the lathe.
In this video, I turn a 6 inch wood faceplate.
- Mount a blank (poplar) on the face of a scroll chuck.
- Rough turn the blank to round and smooth the face.
- Cut a dovetail tenon.
- Flip the blank and mount to a chuck with the dovetail tenon.
- Bore the thread hole – 1 1/8″ in this case.
- Thread the hole – A Beall 1 1/4″ x 8 tpi tap
- Relieve hole 1/8 for the spindle base – on both sides. One the face so the faceplate can mount to the spindle in order to cut the relieve on the spindle side of the faceplate.
- Face off the chuck and it is ready for use.
I’ll still use metal faceplates for green bowl and large bowl turning. I like the safety of steel or aluminum in these cases.
Otherwise, I’m building my collection of faceplates.