May also be viewed on YouTube.
I’ve wanted to turn this project every since seeing Michael Hosaluk demonstrate it.
It is basically a turned box but with a twist. The top and bottom are elongated. Then at the band saw, each is sliced, the segment turned about 180 degrees then re glued. In this case, the top and bottom segments were sliced and re glued twice each. This process gave them a bit of an arc.
The inside surface is distressed while the exterior is sanded into a flowing shape. Finally, the box is painted with acrylic paint and a texture applied of acrylic gel.
With no grain alignment, there is no “right” way to position the top with respect to the bottom. Thus, the box can assume many different shapes or characters.
When I first saw one of Mike’s I just had to pick it up, twist it around and try to figure out how he did it. It’s fun.
I turned this napkin holder for my wife for Mother’s Day from walnut.
It consists of a round base and two round sides. The sides have a little wood sliced away so they can stand on the base.
The space between the sides is perfect for dinner napkins.
The walnut is beautiful.
Since spring has arrived, it’s time for picnics and barbecues.
How about some deviled eggs for those occasions?
I used the split turning technique for this project.
- Glue two pieces of walnut together with brown craft paper between.
- Turn an egg then split it into two halves.
- Turn the deviled yolk and glue it to the half egg.
- Proudly serve your deviled eggs at the next appropriate occasion.
This aspen bowl was turned wet or green several years ago. At that time, I put it away in a paper sack for it to dry. Apparently, it was extra wet or did not dry very quickly, since a large growth of mold or fungus developed on the surface. I brushed off the mold or fungus and left it to continue drying without a paper sack.
After wet turning, I did not expect much from this bowl. Aspen is a fairly plain wood. This being the case, I was in no hurry to finish turn it.
However, I was in for a big surprise. Rather than being a problem, the growth did me a favor by imparting additional color and interest to the bowl thru spalting.
The bowl is eight inches in diameter and three inches in height, finished with walnut oil and buffed to shiny perfection.
In this project I re-create a climbing bear I had made for my children with one significant improvement — he’s round. The former bear was a flat piece of wood in somewhat the shape of a bear. While any self-respecting wild bear my not recoginize this one, I do and I think the next generation, my grand children, will recognize.
This bear is a split turning, meaning that there is another just like him from the other half of the blank. In addition, I turned his four legs, top bar, and beads.
He is finished with shellac friction polish which is then buffed to a nice shine.
Alternatively pulling his cords helps him climb up.
This project is my chance to practice what I learned from a demo by Eric Lofstrom at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium.
The wood is cedar from my backyard tree. It is turned with four axes that created three curved facets. The primary axis is the normal center; the other three axes are at 120 degrees. I cut a large cove on one facet and large beads on the other two.
Most wood removal was with a gouge with refinement with a skew.
Multi-axis turning is rough going as there’s no bevel to ride. After the lathe work, I band sawed the top into a flowing shape; the bottom to a flat. Afterwards, I refined the shapes by sanding.
The final shape is about five to six inches tall and two to three inches in diameter. It is finished with shellac. Buffing made a world of difference to the finish. Check him out at http://www.ericlofstrom.com.
My thanks to Eric for opening to me a new dimension in woodturning.
This woodpecker toy has been on my To Do list for a very long time.
The original was a small bird perched on a spring mounted on a small tube that fit over a stiff wire. The bird would rock back and for while travelling down the rod.
He’s truly fascinating.
This version is upscale from the original with more travel on a longer dowel. The bird is cherry and walnut. The spring came from a hardware store selected because it seems not to stiff and not too weak. The spring mounts to a short wood tube that fits loosely on a 5/16″ dowel. The dowel is mounted to a walnut base and topped with a cherry cap. The base has a taller center to try to protect the bird’s tail when it reaches bottom.
After some trial and error, the bird does his thing, rocking back and forth as he travels down the dowel.
My friend, Jerry Klug wrote an article for Cascade Woodturners on turned eggs and chucks for making eggs. This video will focus on my adaptation of these chucks for my use.
One early chuck was from Dick Sing using PVC slip fitting. It works on a compression principle with the force supplied by a band clamp. In my opinion, its disadvantage is the risk of personal injury from the band clamp.
The second chuck was from Vern Bunn using a PVC threaded coupling (2 in PVC S x S Compression Coupling). It works differently in that the compression comes from the top ring of the PVC fitting which is threaded. It has a slightly greater range of egg sizes. In my opinion it would serve somewhat better than Dick Sing’s.
However, even this chuck can be improved. Vern’s implementation holds the PVC with his four jaw chuck. I’d rather not tie up my four jaw chuck. Plus, ideally, jaws should be positioned in the same position with each use. Both of these conditions can be avoided by mounting the PVC on a home-made (DIY) threaded faceplate. My faceplate is poplar but could be made of any appropriate material.
- Make a threaded faceplate.
- Smooth the outer surface of the PVC then part it in about half.
- Cut a groove in the faceplate to fit the PVC fitting. Then glue the PVC into the groove.
- Make at least one wood disc for the bottom of the chuck. It must fit into the PVC and be dished out to fit the bottom of the egg. Additional spacers may need to be added as necessary.
- Make at least one wood ring for the top of the chuck. This ring fits over the small end of the egg but inside the PVC female threaded ring.
Then use this chuck to finish the small end of your eggs as smoothly ands well finished as the rest of the egg.
This project is a fun way to use up scraps and please both the grandkids and their parents.
This time, I’ll use a egg chuck derived from work done by Vern Bunn. The main difference is that I’ve mounted mine to a threaded wood faceplate to avoid using my 4 jaw chuck.
According to Ron Washall, the perfect egg is a series of arcs: one describes the bottom, the big end; 2 identical arcs define the sides; and one more describes the top. However, you will never find a “perfect” egg. They are all different. But, calculating from his description, the perfect length for an egg is 1.29 times its diameter. I made several templates to help me with this measure.
All this was compiled by Jerry Klug in the February newsletter for Cascade Woodturners.
The two eggs in this video are both walnut of different types. They are finished with shellac friction polish. They are about 1 3/4″ diameter and, of course, their lengths are 1.29 times their diameter. Approximately of course.
All this is just in time for those spring egg hunts.
Link to Fitting
I’ve accumulated some segment rings leftovers from previous projects. Most are from my Crazy Droopy bowl that have a taper on the rings. Rather than make new rings, I’ll make these into this project.
The first two rings are flat and not very tall. These will make the base. The first is cherry with 12 segments; the second is oak with 24 segments. These I glued to a threaded wood faceplate.
The next rings are 8 segment rings of walnut, padauk, oak and walnut. These total 69 segments including the walnut plug in the base. All of these rings have a taper.
This bowl presented a challenge in gluing the rings to the base as they had a strong tendency to slide and were difficult to clamp. Actual turning resembled multi-axis turning and natural edge turning. I carved three feet into the foot instead of a round base.
Not bad for leftovers!
The bowl is 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 inches in height finished with walnut oil.