This video is also posted to YouTube, Vimeo, and FaceBook. Best right here!

I took a training class at Craft Supplies almost two years ago. During the class, I did a couple of coring projects with the Kelton McNaughton Center Saver System. At that time, I cored two sets of matching bowls from sycamore. I then painted the rough bowls with Tree Saver Green Wood Sealer, brought them home and let them dry. They are definitely dry now – I don’t need to weigh them.

A viewer asked a question, “How to you remount a cored bowl that does not have an original center”. A perfect excuse to rescue those bowls from the drying rack.

In this video, I used two different ways to center the blank. In the end, I recommend the later.

First, obtain a piece of clear acryllic from your store a little bigger than the largest bowl you expect to turn. Find the center and mount the acryllic to a faceplate. Stretch some masking tape from the center to the perimeter so marks can be made every inch. With your favorite point tool (skew) scratch concentric circles at one inch increments. Drill a hole in the center big enough for your pencil (1/4″) then drill holes at each ring preferable in a straight line to the perimeter at each ring.

This center finder can be used many ways. In this case, I want to find an optimum center of the warped bowl. Use the center hole to mark it.

But, as I explain in the video, precision may not be necessary. A green bowl shrinks across the grain, often unpredictably. The bowl walls are thick to allow wood to be cut away. Hopefully, they are thick enough to allow some deviation from a “true” (whatever that is) center.

My sycamore bowls are 10+, 7, and 4 inches diameter and 4, 2, 1 inches tall, finished with walnut oil.

Enjoy!

Resource Links
Home Made Vaporizer for “Pyrography”/Woodburning
DIY Pyrography Pen And Tip For My Woodburning