This Bowl Has A Magnetic Personality!

Walnut Pin Bowl

May also be viewed on YouTube.

At my wife’s request, I turned this magnetic pin bowl. It looks simple but figuring out how to embed a magnet and still have enough magnetic force was a brain teaser.

The bowl is walnut finished with friction polish. It uses a segmented approach with four rings of twelve segments each plus two pieces of three ply home made walnut plywood. This amounts to 54 pieces of wood.

The magnet is a generic HF 25 pound 2 inch magnet.

Good turning.

Woodturning To Remount And Finish Golden Chain Bowl

Bowl Golden ChainMay also be viewed via YouTube.

I rough turned this bowl about two years ago. A friend was cutting down a tree in his yard and offered me some of the wood. He called it a golden chain. I looked up the tree and found several interesting facts including: it is very hard; sometimes used as an ebony substitute; and toxic to all animals. Its flowers are very pretty.

Fortunately for me, roughing a bowl when it’s wet is a lot easier than when it’s dry.

My finished bowl is about 9 inches in diameter and about 2 inches high.

I found it interesting how much luster the raw wood had when sanded.

This bowl is finished with walnut oil.

Good turning.

Woodturning An Eccentric Or Multi-Axis Bud Vase

Eccentric Bud Vase BirchMay also be viewed on YouTube.

This bud vase is spalted birch harvested about a year ago. It is an eccentric turning on four axes: Main and offset by 3/8 inch at 120 degree intervals.

A year ago, I rough turned it round and waxed it. It has been laying around my shop since then.

It is about five inches tall and two inches in diameter, finished with beeswax and mineral oil followed by buffing.

Initially, I envisioned it taller with a neck about three inches longer. But when it neared completion, it did not look right — so I turned off the neck. Much better without.

I turned two coves on two offset axes followed by a large bead on the final offset axis.

It was fun.

Good turning.

Risky Woodturning – Winged Bowl Tealight

Cedar Winged TealightMay also be viewed on YouTube.

After visiting the Portland Saturday Market, I was inspired to turn this winged tealight.

As I turned it, I was struck by the similarities between this winged bowl design and a natural edge turning. After all, except for dealing with the bark, the process is the same and the risks are the same.

In either case, I’m turning a lot of air with only intermittent contact with wood. This makes riding the bevel nearly impossible. The turning sequence is nearly identical to a natural edge except that this wood is already dry. In addition to the basics, I added a base turning and bored a hole for an LED light.

My winged square edge tealight is about 8 inches long, 3.5 inches wide, and 3 inches tall, finished with mineral oil and beeswax followed by buffing.

The LED light is battery operated and does not generate enough heat to be a safety hazard or fire risk.

Good turning.

Multi-Axis Woodturning – All My Scoops

May also be viewed on YouTube – but please stay here if possible.

Cedar ScoopTo complete my video series on wood scoops, I turned this cedar scoop about 7 inches long and 2 inches diameter, finished with beeswax and mineral oil.

The turning axes were:

  1. The original center of the wood for the scoop.
  2. A skewed axis for the handle.
  3. The original axis for the end of the handle.

One safety note: I used hot melt glue to fasten the scoop to a piece of scrap before sawing the scoop. I did not wnat the round scoop turning at the saw.

I love the finished look and feel of these three cedar scoops. I can improve each, I’m sure, but that’s for the future. The cedar feels crisp and light and sounds nice when two are gently hit together.

Good turning.

My Home Made Scoop Chuck For Difficult Mounts

Scoop Chuck

May also be viewed on YouTube.

This scoop is actually my Vicmark vm120 body with wood jaws mounted to the body.

The jaws are made from an 8″ by 8″ by 1/2″ piece of Baltic birch plywood(the good stuff). The standard jaws were used as templates to mark bolt holes. The holes were then counter sunk and stabilized with thin CA glue.

The jaws are attached with bolts a little longer than the standard bolts to allow for the additional thickness of my plywood.

On top of the plywood, I glued 2″ thick cedar since that is what I had available. The wood can be anything stable and readily available. This wood is miter cut similar to a picture frame, drilled for outer bolt access, and glued to the plywood.

The jaws can now be customized to hold the current project.

For my scoop, I drilled out the center a little smaller than my scoop bowl and removed two opposing jaws.

When the time comes that I have removed too much of the jaws for my then current project, I can either make a new set of jaws or tool off the cedar and glue on new wood pieces.

As with any home made tool, please be careful and use your head. Start slow then increase speed to where you are comfortable then dial back a little. As with any home made tool, you are the sole person responsible for its safety and your own safety.

Good turning.

Woodturning Oval Bowl Scoop With New “Scoop” Chuck

Oval Scoop in Cedar

May also be viewed on YouTube.

This scoop is another style I saw Soren Berger turn recently. The difference is the oval bowl that makes the scoop more difficult to hold while hollowing the bowl.

I wanted a better way to hold the wood than a jamb chuck or a scroll chuck. Jamb chucks require wood and custom tooling and are usually used only once. Scroll chuck leave nasty marks on the wood that must be disguised with decorative elements or sanded smooth again.

The brainstorm is a set of wood jaws that bolt on to my scroll chuck body. The chuck body provides clamping pressure. The wood jaws provide quick and easy customization options. They’re added benefit is that if my tool gets too close to the jaws, no harm is done to the project, tools, or me.

I’ll show details for the chuck in the next video.

Good turning.

Bowler Hat Bowl For Woodturning Club Demo

Walnut Bowler Hat BowlMay also be viewed in YouTube.

I made this segmented bowl in preparation for a segmented turning demo at Williamette Woodturners. Bryan wanted an introduction to segmented turning with a hat theme. The introduction included both open and closed segmented process to create this bowl.

In response, we selected a bowler had with both closed and open segments. The hat’s brim is a special challenge as it is a narrow area to turn.

This bowl is walnut with nine rings: 6 closed segment rings and 3 open segment rings. Closed segment rings have 12 segments. Open segment rings have 18 segments. Inlcuding the top plug, this totals 127 pieces fo wood. It is finished with walnut oil.

To cut segments I used a sliding table designed by Jerry Bennett. I made the sliding table, depth stop, zero clearance segment deflector, 15 degree template, and 8 degree template. Search for Jerry Bennett Wedgie Sled for plans.

Good turning.

Woodturning One Scoop After Another

Cedar Scoop

May also be viewed on YouTube.

Recently, I saw Sören Berger turn a scoop. He made it look easy and indeed it is — after you’ve completed one.

This cedar scoop combines elements of spindle turning, multi-axis turning, and bowl turning.

It also includes turning a perfect sphere. A perfect sphere is no problem for me, I have that process down. The difference is that this sphere must be on the end of a handle. I cannot rotate the ball’s axis as I can for an independent sphere.

Soren marked out first for a octagon, then rounded it over for a ball. However, he used his single purpose caliper to make critical measures for the octagon.

I don’t have his caliper – nor do I want a single purpose tool. However, the geometry is simple. I created a spreadsheet to related diameter to critical measures for the octagon. BTW, the length of a side of a polygon is 0.414 times the diameter.

My spreadsheet can be downloaded here.

My scoop is Titan cedar about six inches long with a 2.5 inch diameter bowl, finished with mineral oil and beeswax.

Good turning.

N-Loop Perfect Celtic Knot Seeks Perfect Sphere

May also be viewed on YouTube.

5 Loop Celtic Knot In Perfect SphereThis journey thru Celtic knots has resulted in an easy and repeatable process that greatly simplifies preparation of the turning stock. In previous descriptions, the project wood had to be milled to exact dimensions: squares for four loops being the easiest, triangles for three loop, pentagons for five loops.

The significant realization was that it’s not the wood that has to be milled. The milled wood was shaped to provide positioning for the cutting angles. Instead, we only need to make plywood polygons that can be attached to the ends of the wood to maintain positions.

To summarize how to make a n-loop Celtic knot:

  1. Prepare appropriate stock for the project. The only requirement is that the two opposite end be parallel and their centers drilled to a shallow depth.
  2. Prepare paper templates with polygons with sides equal to the number of loops desired in the Celtic knot: triangle for three loops; square for four loops; pentagon for five loops and so on.After the previous video with a Celtic knot in a barbecue flipper, several comments included a suggestion to leave a little wood when the angle cut is made to keep the wood spaced correctly. In addition Michael challenged me to make a 3 loop Celtic knot. The project wood must fit inside and be centered on the center of the polygon.
  3. Glue the templates to plywood, rough cut, and sand down to the perimeter line.
  4. Temporarily glue the plywood polygons to the ends of the project wood. Use a small nail thru the plywoods’ center and into the center of the project wood.
  5. Choose a cut angle for the knot.
  6. Prepare the saw with appropriate stops and supports. Do NOT change any stop or support until the project is completed to reduce the opportunity for error.
  7. Set the depth of cut to allow a thin piece of wood to remain connecting the otherwise two pieces of wood. Use scrap wood temporarily glued to the project wood to supplement and reinfore the cut area before making the cut.
  8. Make the cut.
  9. Prepare contrasting spline material to easily slide into the saw kerf.
  10. Glue spline into the saw kerf. Work quickly to insert and position the spline before the glue sets. Do not use CA glue.
  11. Clean up excess spline material and the scrap reinforcements.
  12. Repeat steps 8,10, & 11 for each additional knot loop.
  13. Finish turn the project. Hurrah.

How to make a perfect sphere or ball.

  1. Prepare a faceplate with a cup that fits the rough ball. Find a rubber stopper about twice as large as your threaded(hopefully) live center. Drill to fit the live center.
  2. Measure the diameter of the spindle. Mark that length on the spindle, centering as necessary.
  3. Partially part outside these marks to indicate the top and bottom. Rough turn the ball between centers. Make a pencil line at the equator (largest center) of the ball.
  4. Saw off the small tenons.
  5. Rotate the rough ball 90 degrees and mount to the cup faceplate, holding it with the rubber stopper on the live center. The equator line should now run parallel to the turning axis.
  6. Use a scraper or other gentle tool to carefully remove any wood higher than the equator line but be sure to leave the line.
  7. Mark a new equator line.
  8. Rotate the ball 90 degrees so the new equator line is parallel to the turning axis.
  9. Use a scraper or other gentle tool to carefully remove any wood higher than the equator line but be sure to leave the line.
  10. If satisfied, move on to sanding. Otherwise, repeat steps 7, 8, and 9 until you are.
  11. For each sanding grit repeat the same ball rotations used to turn the ball but don’t mark equator lines. Do the same process by eye. That will be good enough for sanding.

Good turning.